Here then is the defence: at lunchtime, when it’s a short à la carte, the Lookout is worth busting your lungs for. But too often a tasting menu feels to me like double maths, only with fancy glasses and better-dressed teachers. If they’re finding enough custom happy to have what they’re given, then good for them. They do something similar at Timberyard and Six by Nico, the Table and Aizle and a few others beside. There’s quite a lot of this in Edinburgh right now. It’s £50 for five courses and £70 for seven.
In the evenings, like its sister restaurant, the Gardener’s Cottage at the bottom of the hill, it only serves a tasting menu. I feel intrepid simply for getting to the door. I go on a late November day, when half the North Sea is being deposited on the hilltop. On a beautiful Edinburgh summer’s day when the sun barely bothers to set, this could be joyous. No one would describe it as a model of accessibility. Otherwise, it’s a major yomp uphill because there’s no parking.
Taxis can drop off, though it’s still a walk from the road. ‘With a deep, rich rust sauce’: rock oysters.
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